Justin's Toyota Service

Idle Air Control Valve Toyota Corolla E11

• RepairSurge Auto Repair Software
• Solutions To Cutting Gas And Diesel Costs Within Minutes

Fairly easy, suitable^ for beginner with some experience ^

Fairly difficult, suitable for competent A, DIY mechanic ^

Difficult, suitable ^ for experienced DIY

mechanic

Very difficult, suitable for expert jC

DIY or professional ^

1-4 Maintenance schedule

The maintenance intervals in this manual are provided with the assumption that you, not the dealer, will be doing the work. These are the minimum maintenance intervals recommended by the factory for vehicles that are driven daily. If you wish to keep your vehicle in peak condition at all times, you may wish to perform some of these procedures even more often. Because frequent maintenance enhances the efficiency, performance and resale value of your car, we encourage you to do so. If you drive in dusty areas, tow a trailer, idle or drive at low speeds for extended periods or drive for short distances (less than 6 kilometers) in below freezing temperatures, shorter intervals are also recommended.

When your vehicle is new, it should be serviced by a factory authorised dealer service department to protect the factory warranty. In many cases, the initial maintenance check is done at no cost to the owner.

Two maintenance schedules are given below. One for non-VVT-i models (1.3 litre 4E-FE and 1.6 litre 4A-FE engines) from 1997 to Oct '99, and one for VVT-i models (1.4 litre 4ZZ-FE and 1.6 litre 3ZZ-FE engines) from Oct '99 onwards.

1.3 and 1.6 litre non-VVT-i models

Every 400 km or weekly

• Refer to Weekly checks

Every 7000 km or

6 months - whichever comes sooner

• Renew the engine oil and filter (Section 3).

Note: Frequent oil and filter changes are good for the engine. We recommend changing the oil at the mileage specified here, or at least twice a year if the mileage covered is a less.

Every 30 000 km or

2 years - whichever comes sooner

• Renew the air filter element (Section 10).

Every 12 months

15 000 km or whichever comes sooner

Check all underbonnet components or fluid leaks (Section 4).

Check the condition of the driveshaft rubber gaiters and CV joints (Section 5). Lubricate ail hinges and locks (Section 6). Check the transmission fluid level (Section 7 or 8). Check the condition of the auxiliary drivebelt (Section 9).

Check the condition of the air filter element (Section 10).

Check the operation of the handbrake (Section 11). Check the condition of the brake pads (Section 12). Check the condition of the brake drums and shoes (Section 13).

Check the condition of the exhaust system and mountings (Section 14). Inspect the suspension and steering components (Section 15).

Renew remote alarm/locking handset battery (Section 16).

Check the clutch pedal adjustment (Section 17). Check the condition of the pollen filter (Section 18). Carry out a road test (Section 19).

Every 60 000 km or

4 years - whichever comes sooner

• Renew the transmission fluid (Section 7 or 8).

Every 90 000 km or

6 years - whichever comes sooner

Note: Although the normal interval for timing belt renewal is 100 000 km, it is strongly recommended that the interval is reduced to 90 000 km, especially on vehicles which are subjected to intensive use, ie, mainly short journeys or a lot of stop-start driving. The actual belt renewal interval is therefore very much up to the individual owner, but bear in mind that severe engine damage will result if the belt breaks.

• Check and adjust the valve clearances (Section 24).

Maintenance schedule 1-5

1.4 and 1.6 litre VVT-i models

Every 400 km or weekly

• Refer to Weekly checks

Every 8000 km or

6 months - whichever comes sooner

• Renew the engine oil and filter (Section 3).

Note: Frequent oil and filter changes are good for the engine. We recommend changing the oil at the mileage specified here, or at least twice a year if the mileage covered is a less.

Every 16 000 km or

12 months - whichever comes sooner

Check all underbonnet components or fluid leaks (Section 4).

Check the condition of the driveshaft rubber gaiters and CV joints (Section 5). Lubricate all hinges and locks (Section 6). Check the transmission fluid level* (Section 7 or 8). Check the condition of the auxiliary drivebelt (Section 9).

Check the condition of the air filter element (Section 10).

Check the operation of the handbrake (Section 11). Check the condition of the brake pads (Section 12).

• Check the condition of the exhaust system and mountings (Section 14).

• Inspect the suspension and steering components (Section 15).

Check the clutch pedal adjustment (Section 17). Check the condition of the pollen filter (Section 18). Carry out a road test (Section 19).

• Note: Toyota do not specify an interval for checking the manual transmission fluid level.

Every 32 000 km or

2 years - whichever comes sooner

• Check the condition of the brake drums and shoes

• Renew remote alarm/locking handset battery

Every 64 000 km or

3 years - whichever comes sooner

Every 64 000 km or

4 years - whichever comes sooner

• Renew the transmission fluid* (Section 7 or 8).

• Renew the air filter element (Section 10).

• Note: Toyota do not specify an interval for renewing the automatic transmission fluid.

Every 96 000 km or

6 years - whichever comes sooner

• Renew the auxiliary drivebelt (Section 9).

• Check and adjust the valve clearances (Section 24).

1*6 Maintenance - component location

Front underbonnet view of a 1.3 litre model

1 Oil level dipstick

2 Engine oil filler cap

3 Brake fluid reservoir

4 Air cleaner housing

5 Coolant reservoir

6 Battery

7 Fuse/relay box

8 Ignition coils

9 Power steering reservoir

10 Washer fluid reservoir

11 Test socket

Front underbonnet view of a 1.4 litre VVT-i model

1 Oil level dipstick

2 Engine oil filler cap

3 Brake fluid reservoir

4 Clutch fluid reservoir

5 Coolant reservoir

6 Battery

7 Fuse/relay box

8 Ignition coils

9 Power steering reservoir

10 Washer fluid reservoir

11 Air cleaner housing

Maintenance - component location W

Front underbody view (VVT-i model shown - other models similar)

1 Oil filter

2 Engine oil drain plug

3 Coolant reservoir

4 Right-hand driveshaft

5 Anti-roll bar

6 Suspension control arm

7 Track rod end

8 Catalytic converter

9 Radiator drain tap

Rear underbody view

1 Fuel tank

2 Exhaust rear silencer

3 Strut rod

4 No 1 suspension arm

5 No 2 suspension arm

6 Handbrake cable

7 Anti-roll bar

1«8 Maintenance procedures

1 General information

1 This Chapter is designed to help the home mechanic maintain his/her vehicle for safety, economy, long life and peak performance.

2 The Chapter contains master maintenance schedules, followed by Sections dealing specifically with each task in the schedule. Visual checks, adjustments, component renewal and other helpful items are included. Refer to the accompanying illustrations of the engine compartment and the underside of the vehicle for the locations of the various components.

3 Servicing your vehicle in accordance with the mileage/time maintenance schedule and the following Sections will provide a planned maintenance programme, which should result in a long and reliable service life. This is a comprehensive plan, so maintaining some items but not others at the specified service intervals will not produce the same results.

4 As you service your vehicle, you will discover that many of the procedures can - and should - be grouped together, because of the particular procedure being performed, or because of the close proximity of two otherwise-unrelated components to one another. For example, if the vehicle is raised for any reason, the exhaust can be inspected at the same time as the suspension and steering components.

5 The first step in this maintenance programme is to prepare yourself before the actual work begins. Read through all the Sections relevant to the work to be carried out, then make a list and gather together all the parts and tools required. If a problem is encountered, seek advice from a parts specialist, or a dealer service department.

2 Routine maintenance

1 If, from the time the vehicle is new, the routine maintenance schedule is followed closely, and frequent checks are made of fluid levels and high-wear items, as suggested throughout this manual, the engine will be kept in relatively good running condition, and the need for additional work will be minimised.

2 It is possible that there will be times when the engine is running poorly due to the lack of regular maintenance. This is even more likely if a used vehicle, which has not received regular and frequent maintenance checks, is purchased. In such cases, additional work may need to be carried out, outside of the regular maintenance intervals.

3 If engine wear is suspected, a compression test (refer to Chapter 2A) will provide valuable information regarding the overall performance of the main internal components. Such a test can be used as a basis to decide on the extent of the work to be carried out. If, for example, a compression test indicates serious internal engine wear, conventional maintenance as described in this Chapter will not greatly improve the performance of the engine, and may prove a waste of time and money, unless extensive overhaul work (Chapter 2B) is carried out first.

4 The following series of operations are those often required to improve the performance of a generally poor-running engine:

Primary operations a) Clean, inspect and test the battery (See 'Weekly checks').

b) Check all the engine-related fluids (See 'Weekly checks').

c) Check the condition and tension of the auxiliary drivebelt (Section 9).

d) Renew the spark plugs (Section 22).

e) Check the condition of the air cleaner filter element, and renew if necessary (Section 10).

f) Renew the fuel filter - non-VVT-i engine models only (Section 20).

g) Check the condition of all hoses, and check for fluid leaks (Section 4).

5 If the above operations do not prove fully effective, carry out the following operations:

Secondary operations

All items listed under Primary operations, plus the following:

a) Check the charging system (Chapter 5A).

b) Check the ignition system (Chapter 5B).

c) Check the fuel system (Chapter 4A).

3 Engine oil and filter renewal

Non-VVT-i models -

every 7000 km or 6 months

VVT-i models -

every 8000 km or 6 months

1 Frequent oil and filter changes are the most important preventative maintenance procedures which can be undertaken by the DIY owner. As engine oil ages, it becomes diluted and contaminated, which leads to premature engine wear.

2 Before starting this procedure, gather together all the necessary tools and materials. Also make sure that you have plenty of clean rags and newspapers handy, to mop-up any spills. Ideally, the engine oil should be warm, as it will drain better, and more built-up sludge will be removed with it. Take care, however, not to touch the exhaust or any other hot parts of the engine when working under the vehicle. To avoid any possibility of scalding, and to protect yourself from possible skin irritants and other harmful contaminants in used engine oils, it is advisable to wear gloves when carrying out this work. Access to the underside of the vehicle will be greatly improved if it can be raised on a lift, driven onto ramps, or jacked up and supported on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Whichever method is chosen, make sure that the vehicle remains level, or if it is at an angle, that the drain plug is at the lowest point.

3 Although not strictly necessary, to improve access, undo the screws and remove the right-hand engine undershield - where fitted (see illustration).

4 Slacken the drain plug about half a turn (see illustration). Position the draining container under the drain plug, then remove the plug completely. If possible, try to keep the plug pressed into the sump while unscrewing it by hand the last couple of turns (see Haynes Hint). Recover the sealing ring from the drain plug.

3.3 Left- and right-hand engine undershields (arrowed)

3.4 Slacken the engine oil drain plug (arrowed)

As the drain plug releases from the sump threads, move it away sharply, so the stream of oil issuing from the sump runs into the container, not up your sleeve.

Maintenance procedures 1-9

3.6 Fit a new sealing washer to the drain plug

5 Allow some time for the old oil to drain, noting that it may be necessary to reposition the container as the oil flow slows to a trickle.

6 After all the oil has drained, wipe off the drain plug with a clean rag, and fit a new sealing washer (see illustration). Clean the area around the drain plug opening, and refit the plug, tightening it to the specified torque.

7 Move the container into position under the oil filter, which is located on the front of the cylinder block.

8 Using an oil filter removal tool if necessary, slacken the filter initially, then unscrew it by hand the rest of the way (see illustrations). Empty the oil in the old filter into the container.

9 Use a clean rag to remove all oil, dirt and sludge from the filter sealing area on the engine. Check the old filter to make sure that the rubber sealing ring hasn't stuck to the engine. If it has, carefully remove it.

10 Apply a light coating of clean engine oil to the sealing ring on the new filter, then screw it into position on the engine (see illustration). Tighten the filter firmly by hand only - do not use any tools.

11 Remove the old oil and all tools from under the car, then lower the car to the ground (if applicable).

12 Remove the dipstick, then unscrew the oil filler cap from the cylinder head cover. Fill the engine, using the correct grade and type of oil (see Weekly checks). An oil can spout or funnel may help to reduce spillage. Pour in half the specified quantity of oil first, then wait a few minutes for the oil to run to the sump. Continue adding oil a small quantity at a time until the level is up to the lower mark on the dipstick. Adding approximately 1 litre will bring the level up to the upper mark on the dipstick. Refit the filler cap.

13 Start the engine and run it for a few minutes; check for leaks around the oil filter seal and the sump drain plug. Note that there may be a delay of a few seconds before the oil pressure warning light goes out when the engine is first started, as the oil circulates through the engine oil galleries and the new oil filter before the pressure builds-up.

14 Refit the engine undershield (where applicable), and secure it in place with the screw fasteners.

3.8a Oil filter - Non-VVT-i engines 3.8b Oil filter - VVT-i engines (arrowed)

3.8c Use a filter removal tool

3.8c Use a filter removal tool

15 Switch off the engine, and wait a few minutes for the oil to settle in the sump once more. With the new oil circulated and the filter completely full, recheck the level on the dipstick, and add more oil as necessary.

16 Dispose of the used engine oil safely, with reference to General repair procedures.

4 Hose and fluid leak check

+2 0

Average user rating: 5 stars out of 2 votes